Dumoine
River
Nature always feels close at hand when you're on the river; shoulders
of natural growth adorn either side. Journey though an ever-changing landscape,
or sit and spy, mesmerized by a flock of birds that congregate along the shore.
It's a wilderness route, winding amidst evergreen and hardwood forests, with trees
sometimes forming a canopy. Bring your camera to capture the grandeur of a doe
and her fawn or the trees that are brilliantly coloured in the fall.
The
Dumoine River, located at the border of Témiscamingue and
Outaouais regions, is considered one of the best white water rivers in Eastern
Canada. Experienced paddlers adore the Dumoine but those with just a bit of experience
are amazed at their achievements when their journey ends. It is an opportunity
to share a real wilderness adventure with your family.
Starting in Quebec
this river cascades down a series of rapids and falls to open up to the spectacular
Ottawa River. Interrupt your paddling with a short break to explore unique locations
along the rivers and lakes. Stop to see an old logging relic like "the alligator,
or to check out the quartz squeezed in the rock beside a waterfall, of coarse
the wildlife is always spectacular. Grade CII and CIII
white water will challenge you each day as you travel past waterfalls and high
cliffs.
Fly-in Starting Points
You realize this trip is a genuine
adventure as your canoes are tied onto the floatplanes. You takeoff for the upper
reaches of the Dumoine, watching the river unfold below. You can see the river
winding and the rapids that will provide so many thrills in the days ahead.
| Drop Off Locations | Average Flight Time | Trip
Length (Days) |
| Hunters Point | 70 minutes | 14 |
| Lac Sept Milles | 35 minutes | 8-9 |
| Lac Dix Milles | 40 minutes | 7-8 |
| Lower Lac Dumoine | 40 minutes | 7-8 |
| Lac
Laforge | 40 minutes | 5-6 |
| Lac
Manitou | 35 minutes | 4-5 |
| Lac
Benoit | 30 minutes | 3-4 |
Portages
The
Dumoine River is a mix of the relaxing wilderness with the challenge of white
water ranging from CI to CIV. Portages are available
throughout the route, several around waterfalls. Trails can be rocky but good.
Campsites
The
river offers isolated wilderness camping areas fully immersed in the Dumoine's
natural beauty, an average of one site every 2.5 km. Take time to swim, fish,
and take pictures, before cooking on your campfire.
Shuttle Service
Vehicles
may be left at our air base in Rapids des Joachims
(Swisha) or shuttle service is available from our base to your take out point
at a cost of $50.00 per vehicle ; arrangements must to be made prior to your flight. Pick up service from your
take out point at the mouth of Dumoine River to our base can be arranged.
For
those paddling back to the air base, allow an extra day of travel from the mouth
of Dumoine River to Rapids des Joachims.
Words
From Hap
I don't recall the number of times I've actually paddled the Dumoine
River in Quebec, but it's one of those endearing rivers that nestles
comfortably and indelibly into your soul. I do make an annual pilgrimage
down the Dumoine, or one of its sister-rivers - the Coulonge
or Noire, usually in the fall, because
I feel the necessity to quell the urge to visit a kindred spirit that
has given so much to me through the years. In fact, sad to admit, that
I see more of these rivers than I do most members of my immediate family.
Part of the experience, to me, is flying in above the roads - to settle
in quickly and quietly to the romance of the river; to camp a day or
two in the calm before making the descent; to breathe deeply of the
essence that defines these Quebec gems. Kipawa
Outfitters has a cottage base on Lac
Dumoine - an excellent start point for 7-8 day trips down the river.
Lac Dumoine is virtually undeveloped, with few established campsites,
and most canoeists who start their trips downriver, fail to experience
the pristine beauty of the headwaters. Personally, I find it difficult
to assimilate to any river expedition where one is immediately plunged
into the maelstrom of rapids and falls, without first taking some time
for reflection and calm. After all, most of us lead rather hectic lifestyles
where we constantly rush amongst the crowd, finding very little time
to re-connect with the natural world. We all need to find the time to
"ground" ourselves, to escape from the tedium of every day
life in the mainstream. A night or two on Lac
Dumoine - in the least, flying in to Lac
Laforge or Lac Manitou, fulfills not
only the entire scope of the "adventure", but allows you to
find some much-needed time to find repose and calm. From there, the
adventure unfolds the way it should.
People always ask me what my favourite of the three rivers is, or when
the best time to go would be, and these are truly difficult questions
to answer. Why, because I could expound on the seasonal attributes and
characteristics of each river to the point of being verbose and rhetorical.
True, I do make an annual run down the Dumoine almost every autumn,
at a time when the water levels are at their lowest (or so you would
think), but with every choice you make there will be compromises. Last
year, oddly enough, the colours were not as dramatic, and when we started
our trip (at Lac Laforge), the water levels
were extremely low. Heavy rains prompted a delay at Laforge
but it was some karmic realization that the fowl weather, and the
extra time milling about the campfire, was a good thing. The group bonded,
we enjoyed the beauty of the lake, and the water levels came up significantly
to early summer levels. And, I find the river more challenging when
the ledges and eddies are more defined.
I was also impressed by the cleanliness of the campsites. Paddlers
seem to be more responsible, and outfitters like Blackfeather have done
a mark-up job at stewarding the river, as Air
Swisha & Kipawa Outfitters
have done on Lac Dumoine.
After all, it is our responsibility to show "duty of care"
in order to preserve the integrity of this Canadian showpiece waterway.
Happy travels!
Note: Hap Wilson's new book, "The Cabin", is now available
through your local bookstore, or by ordering direct from Natural Heritage
Publishers or sunriseadventures.com